Cafe Malabar
407 Swift St
Victoria, BC

Hours: Weds–Thurs: 12–2:15 p.m., 4–8 p.m.
Fri–Sat: 12–2:15 p.m., 4–8:30 p.m.
Sun: 12–2:15 p.m., 4–8 p.m.

Website: cafemalabar.ca
Phone: (780) 600-0005

DK: Well it took us a while, but we finally touched down (please forgive the aviation pun) at Victoria’s representative in Air Canada’s Best New Restaurants for 2024 list. They’ve also gone back to back belly to belly as Yam Magazine’s Best South or Southeast Asian restaurant in 2024 and 2025. To be specific, the cuisine of Kerala. So naturally there were some expectations going into this one. Would the Kerala Fried Chicken be “something to write home about” as Air Canada “eater-in-chief”

Tara O’Brady said in her review? Or would I be saving the stamp and just clickety-clacking out a few weary witterings to Ed?

ES: This travel weary individual would say yes, while some dishes popped, other did not.

There were a few dining stars on the table to see high in the sky, and is there a but? Hard to say. Yes, I love the extra spices that would make The Colonel blush (or is that fume?).

Our server was friendly, and she said the food served here is stuff her grandma would love making. It made her think of home, and although my ancestral country is a next-door neighbour to India, I’d say we should do more trading! Technically, Canton style food isn’t hugely spiced, but I can handle it in small doses. That way, my glasses don’t steam up as often.

DK: As litigated in the case of Augustine vs. Andrew’s 40th Birthday Party, the court has declared toum the greatest condiment on Earth. The Kerala Fried Chicken is served with “tum sauce” — which I took to be the same thing, or at least close. So points for that. The chicken itself was good, but as Ed alluded to, the “pop” wasn’t there. The Kappa with Fish Curry and side of Parotta were more memorable.

ES: This operation’s offerings have promise, and on a beautiful day, I can see the place be busy. Who doesn’t want a view of the Inner Harbour while dining on the best of spicy food? I’ll admit I know little about this region’s unique offerings, but I must say the curries are sweet and hot, and on the Scoville scale, it got my glasses fogging instantly! I had the vegie dish personally, and the little pancake style Vattayappams were quite fluffy. I could’ve ordered more, but since Don and I were sharing a few dishes….

DK: Based on the persistent upselling, they are quite proud of their Parotta — and with good reason. It’s fine, flaky stuff. As for the curry, it had a mild sweet and sour flavour and the accompanying tapioca had a pleasant soft, starchy chew. I would complain about the unexpected two dollar charge for the mini ramekin of yoghurt Ed ordered, but when you’re paying $10K a month to lease restaurant space you do what you have to.

A second trip to explore the menu more would be worthwhile. Although our first voyage was satisfying, it didn’t live up to the anticipation created by the non-stop media accolades.

ES: Agreed. And with two stomachs wanting to get filled, although we got stuffed quite fast, we had leftovers! There was chicken and curry left. Did they offer too much? Or in our advancing age, maybe we didn’t need as much to feel full. Hard to say.

As partially delicious as the meal was, we certainly only scratched the surface in what they offered. On a sunny day, a bite down by the dock (at the end of Chinatown aka International Village) is certainly great. During the winters, perhaps not so much.

But I can at least say they’ll warm you up for these coming wintery days.

3½ Blokes out of 5