Director Matt Tyrnauer must love dining at Nobu, a Japanese restaurant that has branding and star power making it a boutique operation that not everyone can afford. With operations existing at metropolises around the world, often connected with a five star hotel, perhaps its time to have that origin story told, and what the “self-titled” film proclaims is that the founder, the life of fame and humility is like a double edged sword. 

For a man who went from humble beginnings to pioneering a sushi business back in the 70s, when the cuisine was still a mysterious staple to most, a lot about the scene has changed. Nobuyuki “Nobu” Matsuhisa is more of a celebrity these days than a chef who helped create fusion cuisine.

While all he wants is to deliver happiness and smiles to patrons who ate his food, there’s also the desire to keep going, and find new ways to marry distinct cultural flavours from another culture to Japanese style arrangements.

The documentary provides a solid, well-shot overview of the man. We get a glimpse into his early days in 1949 Japan and his formative experiences in Lima, Peru, where that signature cultural blend of Japanese and Peruvian flavors was born. It is fascinating material, especially for those who are unfamiliar with his history. There is a touching subplot about his friend Sakai that I will not spoil, but it provides the kind of emotional grounding the film struggles to maintain.

The documentary does a great job of explaining the philosophy behind the food. Precision is everything. Whether it is the exact mix of vinegar, sugar, and salt in the rice, the resting time, or even the crispness of the nori, it all matters. But here is where the film, and perhaps the corporate identity, gets complicated.

Nobu has become less of an individual and more of a global machine, tethered to luxury hotels and celebrity clientele. You are not just paying for the fish and a photo moment to say I’ve been here. Having dined at places like Sushi Kashiba and Tojo’s, I know how fast a high-end bill adds up. A typical Nobu meal can easily start around $200 USD for a filling meal before cocktails and gratuity is added on top! Based on my experience with the latter which I believe is Vancouver’s best restaurant since the 80s, I prefer a meal where the sushi chef designs the personal dining experience. I doubt that is offered in any chain operation, but until I am there, I cannot say if Nobu offers that kind of intimacy.

Ultimately, the film leaves you with an unspoken question: what is the future of the brand? His peak may well have been when he was fully present in his original LA kitchen, and there was only one, before the name became a global fixture. Today, dining at a Nobu location is a roll of the dice. With the man himself on the road 80% of the year, the odds of encountering him are slim. Most of us will simply be engaging with the machine he built, not the craftsman who started it.

3½ Blokes out of 5